WORDS

i have been reluctant to update this blog after the mavs contest. i knew thats what i had to talk about but the truth is i cant find words, pictures, videos, or other peoples words to describe how epic and gnarly this past swell was. to set the record straight there HAVE been bigger days at mavs ridden. BUT this is the biggest mavericks anyone has successfully paddled into... fuck its the biggest waves people have paddled into EVER. I only got one wave saturday after the contest, wound up breaking my leash thank god big cousin TRAV PAYNE was there to pick me up on the ski right quick. I fared better the next day, but i only got ONE WAVE, and that what sets the elite guys from the rest of us.... they just kept coming back for more...... i had one goal once we FINALLY got out to the bowl and that was get ONE REAL WAVE. easier said than done... i reached my quota, bowed out and sat and watched from the shoulder. the guys who got bombs this weekend and then went back for more...... thats un fuckin believable and those guys are mental....








surfline frame grab shot courtesy of ROB BROWN. shots taken off facebook courtesy of FRANK Q